Italy: the right way, part five

Capri Part 1

We landed on Capri after a very quick hydrofoil trip across the Mediterranean. The harbor was small but accessible for the large yachts that brought in wealthy visitors. Our luggage was picked up by an employee of Scalinatella. We took the funicular up the hill to the town and then we walked through the village square, along the main street filled with high end shops. We made a left at the Grand Hotel Quisisana, where the movie stars stay, and continued down the narrow street until we got to our hotel, La Scalinatella. The hotel is lovely with a large courtyard divided for drinks or dining on one side, the entrance in the middle and a garden leading to the pool on the right. The staff was very nice and attentive. They made you feel like you were the most important guest they ever had stay there. Our room was large and we were delighted when we saw there were two bathrooms. Husband asked my preference.

"The one with the whirlpool tub and shower of course! silly question. Why would you need such a large mirror anyway." I answer smiling.

There was a sitting area as well as the bed. It was done all in white and blue, Very relaxing. The balcony had a view of at least a quarter of the island. Husband went to explore the gym right away to get a run in. I took his powerbook down the pool and surfed the web a bit before taking pictures of husband working out in the pretty gym. it was then when I saw the hotel manager escorting a handsome bond man to a very private room past the gym. I could SWEAR it was Jude Law. I waited around a bit to see if he came out again but he did not so I went upstairs to rest. Husband came up and I asked him if he saw the guy who walked by with the hotel manager.

"Sure," he said "He came to workout right after you left."
"Was it Jude Law?"
"I wouldn't know Jude Law if I fell on him"
"Well, did he have an English accent?"
"I didn't talk to him. I was working out!"

MEN!!

Advice I must give to any traveler going to Capri: always forget your camera (if you have it you will not see anyone famous) and wear comfortable shoes. There is tons of walking to very interesting places. I guess you could wear sexy shoes if you were not planning on going far. I did see women with sexy shoes when we went to "The Rocks" a restaurant on the rocks where folks can hang out and sunbathe.

One of my favorite stories came from that restaurant. The food was so good. I had a fettucine with lobster and my mother-in-law ordered this incredible "fish soup" as it was called on the menu. It was so much more than that. More like a platter of every kind of shellfish you could imagine. mmmmmm.
After we ate, the waiter took our picture. A man sitting nearby with his very young, bought-and-paid-for companion, said something in German. It sounded like the equivalent of our "say cheese!" My mother-in-law sweetly turned around and answered him in German, he blushed and went back to his meal.
Turns out, the man had said something like "say Hotshit!" and my mother-in-law said "I understand what you just said." Good for her!!!! Maybe that will teach Mr. I bought my boyfriend to keep his mouth shut.

Italy: the right way, part four

Our trusty driver Guitano picked us up at the San Pietro on the morning we left Positano.

The morning before, as we headed out for the day, a cruise ship made its way close to the hotel and blew the horn several times. The owners along with several members of the staff stood on the top terrace and waved scarves and umbrellas as the ship passed. The ship seemed too big for the Positano harbor took a left after it passed the hotel and headed out to sea. We later learned that a former staff member of the hotel was recently hired by the cruise line and was on that ship. What a sweet moment we witnessed!

On our agenda today was a quick stop in Pompeii. I have wanted to see the lost city since I was 10 years old. The images of bodies in agony as they lost the battle with the volcano fascinated me. I could not image a city so old having such a sophisticated lifestyle. I had to see it.

Guitano asked us if we wanted a tour guide, my in-laws wisely said yes. He quickly made a call and it was all set, a guide would meet us in Pompeii. Did I mention that Guitano knew everyone?

When we arrived, I was amazed at the amount of tourist junk that was there. I don't know why it surprised me but maybe I though it should be a respected monument. Luckily the tourist junk was on the outside of the city. We met Francesco, who got us tickets quickly and ushered us though the turnstiles and into the city.

Francesco was very knowledgeable about the city and his English was excellent. He had spent time all over the world before coming back to Italy. There were huge tour groups from cruise ships speaking German, Japanese, French and English. We had limited time and a small group so Francesco took us to the main attractions. I think we got so much more out of our visit than if we were on our own or with a huge tour group. Many of the building were closed for renovations but we did see so much. Again, I think I would have liked to have stayed longer to see more but we only had 2 hours.

In the middle of the public baths, my camera battery died. Luck was with me because my father-in-law had a camera with the same type of battery. He gave me his. I thought that was very nice and continued my mad pursuit of photos. I wonder if they ever let private tour explore the parts that are blocked off to the public. It would be worth it to volunteer at the dig just to get that opportunity.

As we left I thought about what I learned: didn't know the city was fortified by a huge wall and guard posts, the Italian archaeologist that first discovered the bodies saw they were really pockets in the hardened ash and poured plaster to make casts of the victims, lead pipes for plumbing who knew? (probably why they had a short life span, so many brothels (wonder what crime was like?). I hope to go back someday but at least I can say I saw it.

We found a small restaurant for lunch and had pizza and coke light. oh yes, Caprese salad of course! I thought everyone was going to sleep after lunch so I commandeered the front seat on our drive to Sorrento to catch the hydrofoil to Capri.